Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Singapore Tour


Places of Interests

There are many places of interests, not necessary "tourists attractions" if you get what I mean. There are literally hundreds of them, many with interesting historical background, cultural background etc. While I talked about eating and shopping, I have already mentioned some of them. In this section, I will try to be more comprehensive.
Personally, I am not one for those "commercialized" areas, where they are specifically "tourists attractions". However, I am not going to discriminate such places since this is a general guide. But I will also include certain areas which many (even locals) have not visited. Again, it depends on one's interests. There are many things to do, unlike what many say, Singapore is a concrete jungle, while not actually true, to be perfectly honest.
Unlike what many would like to think, Singaporeans are not that boring after all (ok, I must admit I do have my fair share of boring friends). There are many after-hours spots in Singapore where you could go for your round of drinks and partying. There are nightclubs, discotheques, pubs, wine bars etc. etc. You name it, you can find it here. I will be featuring some of them here as well.
Animals/Nature:
You can find many facilities where you can see animals, birds and even reptiles! There are also several places where you can enjoy the mother nature and see plants and flowers. If you are an animal or bird lover, remember to visit Singapore Zoological Gardens, Jurong Bird Park, and if you like reptiles (and I cannot understand why!! ), visit Jurong Reptile Park. There is also the Night Safari which opens only at night, where you can experience being close to animals which comes out only during the night time.
For those keen on underwater live, you must not miss (although I feel it is kind of expensive for entrance fees) the Underwater World at Sentosa Island.
Historical:
If you like to see some historical places in Singapore, there are several. Two areas primed for tourists would be the Fort Canning Park and Fort Siloso.
HOWEVER (!), you can visit the Chinatown for old buildings and facade of Chinese buildings and architecture, Tanjong Pasar (now reburbished and housed many pubs and drinking holes), the Malay Village (not 100% authentic since it was build intentionally only recently but they tried their best), Little India etc. places. You can find old buildings which are decades old (some over 100 years old), some reburbished, some still intact.
Island:
More adventurous visitors may want to try hiking at Pulau Ubin (an island off Singapore), where you should still find nature and old huts on the island. However, the recent work on making it a recreational island has made Ubin (as what locals call it) loose its natural shape. I remembered I always visit the island for my camping and hiking trips almost 20 years ago. Back then, we always hunt for wild chicken, and catch fish for our meals. We had a lot of fun back then. But I have not been there for almost 10 years, so the place may have changed. Last I heard is that Ubin has been "upgraded" to be a recreational island, and I feel that the natural part of the island would have been spoilt by the upgrade, which is why I stopped going. Then again, I may be wrong on this, but I am quite sure it is not the same place as it used to be (from the pictures I saw from the newspaper a few years back).
How to get to Ubin: Take bus service no. 2 heading towards Changi Depot, and alight when reaching the depot. You should be able to see the jetty (Changi Jetty) from the place you alight. Just walk towards the jetty and the boat owners will ask you which island you are heading, just say "Ubin" and you will be led to one of the boats (actually, the experience of riding in one of the boats is an experience by itself).
The boat will reach Ubin Jetty where you can start your trekking. Road signs are clearly displayed, so it will be quite hard to be lost. Experience the rural lifestyle once you are on the island.
If you are one for the more commercialized area, Sentosa Island is the place to visit. You can take a bus to World Trade Centre, where you will have a choice between taking the boat and the cable car. Signs are displayed quite clearly on where to take the boat or the cable car, so have no worries.

Area Attractions
Singapore is not just a stand-alone island but a main island with over 60 surrounding islets. The main island has a total land area of about 263 square miles (about the size of the Isle of Man).


Singapore Botanic Garden

Situated near Orchard Road, the 52-hectare Botanic Garden combines both primary jungle and manicured gardens that hold thousands of flora species, including many rare specimens. It also houses the 7.4-acre Singapore Orchid Garden, featuring more than 3000 orchids.


Orchard Road

You haven't shopped in Singapore unless you've been to Orchard Road. This world-famous stretch is a favourite shopping area in the city. Whatever your budget, you can almost always find something to buy. Most shopping centres have an anchor tenant (usually a major department store) and other smaller retailers. Gems for the picking range from designer labels, mid-range goods and budget items. Some popular department stores to check out are Marks & Spencer, Robinsons, Tangs, Ngee Ann City, Wisma Atria, Centrepoint, Scotts and Plaza Singapura.
Singapore Art Museum

The Singapore Art Museum at Bras Basah Road, just across from the Singapore History Museum, is housed in a beautifully restored school building (the former St Joseph's Institution).
The Singapore Art Museum's state-of-the-art galleries feature paintings, sculptures and installations drawn from its 4000-strong permanent collection of South-East Asian modern and contemporary art as well as touring 'blockbuster' shows.
Clarke Quay

Situated along Singapore River, Clarke Quay is a festival village combining entertainment, food and shopping outlets housed in restored warehouses and shophouses, some dating back to the late 1880s. Take a ride in the 'bumboat train', which uses Disney-style animatronics special-effects techniques to tell the tales of Singapore's history.
Sentosa Island

This island is Singapore's best-known amusement park, which was transformed from a military area in 1972. Attractions found on the island include a village featuring Asian food, arts and crafts, beautiful architecture, a butterfly and insect museum, a water adventure ride, a wax museum, an underwater aquarium and an orchid garden.
Asian Civilisations MuseumThis museum features art pieces and artefacts from South-East Asia, China, India and the Islamic world. The museum was originally a Chinese school, built in the 19th century.
Peranakan Place

Peranakan culture is the blending of Chinese and Malay cultures that emerged in the 19th century as Chinese-born in Singapore, Penang and Malacca began adopting Malay fashions, cuisine and architectural style. At Peranakan Place, situated along Orchard Road, this colourful and unique culture is vibrantly depicted in the beautiful buildings.
CHIJMESCHIJMES (pronounced 'chimes') started as a convent girls' school and orphanage in 1854. The convent was closed in 1983 and declared a National Heritage Site. Today, CHIJMES is an attraction that offers an exciting dining, shopping, leisure and entertainment experience.
CHIJMES Hall, the restored chapel, provides a spectacular backdrop for musicals, recitals and other theatrical performances. One of the last few cloistered convents in the world, the fine Gothic architecture offers a great photographic opportunity and is well worth a visit.
Colonial SingaporeNorth of the Singapore River is an area filled with colonial buildings constructed during the British rule. These buildings include the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall, Parliament House, the Supreme Court, City Hall, Singapore Cricket Club, St Andrew Cathedral and Raffles Hotel. Most of the buildings have been restored to their former glory.
Singapore Zoo / Night Safari

Acclaimed by zoologists and tourists as one of the best zoos in the world, Singapore Zoo is set in 170 acres of parkland next to a lake. There are more than 1600 animals in residence and 170 different species, 50% of which are endangered species from South-East Asia. The Night Safari, opened in 1994, is the world's first and only night zoo, which provides a rare opportunity to see nocturnal animals in their active state.
Singapore History Museum

The rich heritage of the island is depicted here through showcasing the trends and developments leading to modern-day Singapore. The history of Singapore is told through 20 dioramas, William Farquhar's collection of drawings, a Peranakan house, Fort Canning, Tiger Balm King's decorative carvings and a secret society lodge. The museum is housed in a grand colonial building topped by a giant silver dome, which was built in 1887.
Chinatown

The ethnic districts of Chinatown, Kampong Glam and Little India are testimonies to the island nation's rich ethnic, cultural and historical heritage. The districts are home to religious monuments as well as quaint shophouses, from traditional herbs and textiles to decorative items and antiques.
Try the Tanjong Pagar area for traditional tea shops, painted masks, waxed paper umbrellas and lacquerware. Then wander over to Smith Street, Trengganu Street, Temple Street and Pagoda Street where the streets are at their narrowest and the bargains at their best.
Little India

Best seen on foot, Little India, located along Serangoon Road, is awash with the scents and sights of the subcontinent. Stroll along this road and the neighbouring alleyways to take in the quaint, old-fashioned shops selling spices, sarees, trinkets, Indian jewellery and daily products used by the average Indian household.
Kampong Glam and Arab Street

Nothing in Singapore beats Arab Street for bazaar-style shopping with true ethnic character. The street itself is a riot of colourful textiles from all over Asia, sold at very low prices. Here you can browse through hole-in-the-wall shops, haggle to your heart's content and come away with the most delightful purchases at bargain prices. The little streets in this area form the historical focal point of Muslim life in Singapore.

Food in Singapore

As Singapore is a cultural mix or racial mix, or in short, a country with a mixture of quite a number of cultures, races, religions and nationalities, you can find a large variety of food here in Singapore, each with their own distinct identity.
If you are a food lover, or a sucker for good food, then Singapore is the place for you. I (the author) love food as well, and I am not about to share with you expensive places, but will tell you where to find good food at affordable and local prices.
Many of my friends from overseas tell me Singapore is a haven for food, but that is because I brought them around! As tourists, you may be lost as to where to get your food (please, do not just stick to the coffehouse or restaurant at/near your hotel, you have not tried the best!). I will try to elaborate as much places as possible, so that you can enjoy yourself MORE when you are in town.
Singaporeans generally "down" tons of noddles or rice yearly. Of course there is a huge variety of how these noodles or rice is prepared. I cannot stop once I start talking on food, so please bear with me.
Oh yes, you can probably get any type of food you like to eat here. The famous dim sum (made popular by Hong Kongers), Chow Dou Foo (smelly beancurd), Beijing Roast Duck, Nasi Lemak, Loti Prata (from our Indian friends), Curry Fishhead etc. etc are all available here. Of course there are fast food (or junk food to many), Italian food, Vietnamese food, Japanese food etc. available almost everywhere, but these are usually more costly and not what the average Singaporeans eat daily. The list (of typs of food available) goes on and on, and you do not need to pay a bomb to enjoy all these good food.
A typical good meal for a local does not costs more than S$5 (including soft drinks) for one person, and even if you wish to pamper yourself, you should not spend more than S$20 per person per meal, yes, that is how affordable it can be! And that will also mean that you would not be able to walk properly after the meal, because it would mean you have consumed a lot of good food!!
Most such meals are available at "hawker centres" or "coffee shops" (or 'kopi-tiam' as local would call it) where you can enjoy good food at good prices. Ask around (locals) where the nearest "hawker centres" or "coffee shops" are, and go there. Look around at the food stalls displaying their food, and choose what you want. Most display their food names and prices quite clearly, so you should never be in doubt.
Oh yes, I generally pick the place I order my food from by judging by the faces of the people who are eating them. If I see them enjoying their food, I will usually order the same food to try out. This is just my personal habit, so please do not hold me by it!
My preference is not to go to those hawker centres which are geared towards tourists (for example, Newton Hawker Centre etc.), those are expensive even for the locals, and some hawkers take the opportunity to charge higher for tourists (which is extremely unfair!). Spend a little bit more time and go to housing estates (there are also such places in town, just ask, you will find them) where local stays, and you will find great places for food.
There are literally hundreds if not thousands of variety of local food here, I will try to feature as many as possible, and give you a rough indication of the prices as well.
Before I dived into food, a typical soft drink (cold) costs about S$0.80 - S$1.50 per can/pack/bottle. A typical glass of fruit juice (water melon, honey dew, sugar cane etc.) is about S$1.50 - S$3.00 per glass. A typical glass of hot drink (coffee, tea etc.) costs about S$0.60 - S$1.20 per glass. Prices varies depending on where you go.
So here I go talking about food, oh yes, not in any order of preference (they are all my favourites!):
Chinese Food
Chicken Rice
- This is one meal swore by a large number of Singapore Chinese. It is fragrant rice (frangrance made by pandan leaves and the soup used to cook the chicken) served with chicken meat (either boiled or roasted, some offer other varieties as well, but not common) and some cucumber slices. It is usually served together with a small bowl of soup (which is the soup-based used to cook the chicken) as well. Such servings generally costs S$2.50 to S$3.00 (you should not be paying anything more than S$5.00) per plate. Additional rice generally costs S$0.30 to S$0.50 per bowl.
This dish is usually prepared by and made famous by Hainanese, that is why it is sometimes called or known as "Hainanese Chicken Rice".
There is also a variety offered by our Malay friends. The Malay version generally deep-fry their chicken, instead of steam boil by our Chinese friends. The Malay version is usually called "Nasi Ayam Goreng" which means "Rice Chicken Fried" if you translate word by word. :-) [see below for more details]
Fishball Noodles (Dry/Soup) - It is noodles served with fishball (made from fish paste, into shapes of a ball, that is why it is called fishball!) and some minced pork.
It is served either "dry" (mixed with chilli paste) and soup (in soup form, soup usually made of ikan bilis (small fish) stock). Dry versions are usually served with a separate bowl (small) of soup.
Tongue twister again - the dry version is called "Ta Mee" (Hokkien for Dry Nooddle), the soup version is called "Tng Mee" (Hokkien for Soup Noodle). Nope, correct spelling, just try pronouncing it and have fun).
You will find the fishball chewy and tasty, not to mention the mixture of the noodles with minced pork and the chilli paste makes a wonderful lunch. Each bowl/serving should costs about S$2.00 - S$3.50 (depending on where you are eating at).
Prawn Noodles (Dry/Soup) - Similar to the fishball version, the prawn noodles are a mixture of noodles and prawns, and usually with some cut learn pork as well. It is also served with soup (prawn stock). Dry version includes the chilli paste as well. The difference between the prawn noodles and the fish ball noodles (aside from the ingredients) would be the chilli paste.
Chilli paste for the prawn noodles are contains a little sweet taste, whereas the fish ball noodles version does not contain any sweet taste.
Each bowl/serving should costs about S$2.00 - S$3.50 (depending on where you are eating at).
Ba Kut Teh (loosely translated to Pork's Bones Tea) - It is pork ribs/limbs stewed in soup (brownish or clear, depending on which dialect group's soup you are eating), served with rice.
The ingredients used in making the stock is heavenly and you will experience pespiration while having this meal, as a lot of pepper (white) are added to the soup.
Try both versions, both contain herbs and are considered good for the body system!
A serving of Ba Kut Teh should costs about S$3.50 - S$5.00. You will have an option of the internal organs of the pig, if you do not like them, just tell the stall that you do not wish to have "spare parts". "Spare Parts" usually refers to the pig's liver, intestines etc. parts.
Malay Food
Nasi Lemak
- This is fragrant rice (made by smell of pandan leaves and ginger) boiled and served with other ingredients. A typical serving usually includes small fish (ikan bilis and ikan kuning), fried egg, cucumber, and peanuts. Together with a small serving of chilli paste (which is hot and sweet), it makes a wonderful meal.
There are also a variety of optional dishes to add on, and I strongly recommend you try the sambal prawns (chilli prawns), ikan kuning goreng (fried fish - small variety) etc. Just take your pick from the variety usually displayed in the front of the stall.
One serving usually costs about S$3.00 - S$5.00, depending on how many of the optional dishes you added.
Nasi Ayam Goreng (translated Fried Chicken with Rice) - This is just like the chinese version of Chicken Rice, but for this case, the chicken meat is deep fried. It is one of my personal favourite for the way the chicken is fried.
If you like (or have tasted) Kentucky Fried Chicken or Texas Fried Chicken, have a good at our Malay Fried Chicken! I believe the chicken is marinated with spices and ginger (which explains its colour), salt and little flour is coated and then deep fried.
So if you like fried food, you will love Nasi Ayam Goreng. It has a different taste to the Chinese version of Chicken Rice, another not to be missed! However, Nasi Ayam Goreng it is not easily found in Singapore. You can find it around the Geylang Serai area though.
A typical serving costs about S$3.00 to S$4.00.
Indian Food
Mee Goreng
- Fried noodles with chilli paste and with a sprinkling of mutton (small pieces) and egg. You will probably never understand how fried noodles can taste so good!
It is usually served with cucumbers (with tomato paste on top) as well. This cucumber is good for those who cannot take too spicy food (it actually acts as a coolant for your tongue, according to a Indian friend).
A serving of Mee Goreng usually costs about S$2.00 - S$3.00.
Loti Prata - A pancake shaped fried dough. It is served either with mutton curry or sugar.
Many will be amaze with the way the cook handles the dough (he will flip, flip and practically 'fly' the dough before folding it into a square shaped dough and fry it on his hot pans).
If you have never seen such cooking in action, take a seat near the stall you ordered from, and see the cook (or chef for some) in action!
The prata (as what local calls it) taste a bit saltish and taste GREAT when dipped into curry gravy provided. For those who cannot take spicy food, ask for sugar instead! If you are adventurous, try both ways of eating the prata and you will notice the difference in flavour (both taste extremely GREAT!).
The plain prata costs about S$0.50 to S$0.80 while the prata with egg costs about S$0.80 to S$1.50 depending on locations. You should get the accompanied curry gravy for free.
MixThere are many food which are made by the different races, so sometimes it is hard to classify which one is the best. Taste buds are different so you may prefer varieties made by the Indians, for example, for Curry Fishhead, but it is also made by Chinese as well.
Below I will try to list the varieties available to each type, try for yourself which is better and let us know!
Curry Fish Head (Indian / Chinese) - served with rice, it is fish head (fish head of larger fish, about twice the size of a grown-up man's palm) cooked in curry gravy, with a mixture of vegetables in the gravy. The Indian version is generally more spicy than the Chinese version.
You will find a lot of fish meat on the fish head as well, so even if you are an inexperienced "eater" of this dish, you will still be able to find the meat. The catch to this dish is actually the gravy, the fish eye (for those experienced eater) and the bones of the fish head (you will notice a lot of locals "sucking" the bones, they are doing it to suck out what's inside the bones, and I shall not comment on what they are sucking for, I will want you to try it out as well!).
There are some differences on how it is eaten, Chinese generally "scoop & drink" the curry gravy (on top of mixing it with their rice), and Indians generally mix the gravy with their rice. So the choice is yours. Tip is if you find the gravy too spicy, mix it with your rice and you will feel a whole lot better when taking to this dish.
Locals generally do not find this dish spicy, but I have friends from other countries who swears by this dish but find it extremely spicy! So if you are not the spicy type, but still want to try this dish, just ask the stall not to add too much chilly.
A serving for about 3 - 4 persons costs about S$20 - S$30 (depending on where you eat, including rice), so if there is only 2 of you, remember to tell the stall so, or else you will end up wasting the food!
My personal favourite curry fish head stall is located at Jalan Berseh Hawker Center, along Jalan Besar. It is at the basement of the hawker center and the first stall (facing the main road) after you take the flight of stairs to the basement (if you are facing the road, it is on the left entrance to the hawker center). All my friends whom I have brought to the stall swears by it and ALL have said it is good, even for my local friends. It operates from about 5pm till about 9pm. Go early as the stock runs out quite quickly daily. If you are feeling generous, invite me there as well since my office is just next door away!
Satay (Malay / Chinese) - meat skewelled on wooden sticks, and grilled over charcoal fire. Served with gravy (for dipping) made from chilly and peanut.
Generally, the Malay and Chinese varieties are almost the same except the the Chinese variety has the pork version, while the Malay does not. The different type of meats include chicken, mutton and beef (plus pork for the Chinese version).
For those not familiar, think "barbeque food". The meat is first seasoned in a mixture of sugar, salt, ginger (for some) and other ingredients, giving it a sweet, saltish and spicy taste.
Also served with satay are cut onion rings (fresh), cut cucumber and rice dumplings (steam rices made into a squarish form).
Costs per stick of Satay is ranges from S$0.30 to S$0.80 (depending on locations).
There are literally hundreds if not thousands of varieties of food available in Singapore, and due to time constraints I can only feature a few. I promise to add more in future if there are demand for it!

Enough already! After receiving countless emails from people who felt I was way too harsh (pun intended) regarding Singapore’s strict laws, I reread what I wrote, and I agree. However, if I had included the rest of the story -- which I do in this week’s newsletter -- everyone would have seen that the strict rules do have a positive side, and that I really did enjoy the country (and airport). So relax. No one is going to jail -- or even getting fined -- as we take a tour of the lion city (lions are the symbol of Singapore). Unfortunately, all of my friends have moved away from Singapore, so I turned to my colleagues at VirtualTourist.com (See Website of the Week for a description). They suggested I contact one of their avid users, Sharrie, to see if she would show me around her city. Luckily for me, Sharrie agreed. (Don’t get your hopes up -- she’s not a professional tour guide, even though she could be.) Thanks to the web, when I met Sharrie in my hotel lobby we felt like we already knew each other. Sharrie has been to all seven continents and wonders of the world (not too many people can say that). So touring me around Singapore was a piece of cake -- especially since this city is so easy to get around by foot and subway. We started off at the financial district, which is fitting because Singapore is ranked the ninth richest country in the world. This is also where Singapore’s tallest building is located. It’s called the OUB, (Overseas Union Bank Center) and is 919 feet high. That makes it 43rd on the list of the world’s tallest buildings. What’s the tallest? Right now, the newly constructed Taipei 101 stands 1,671 feet high, with 101 floors. From the financial district we walked a short distance to the Fullerton Building. This used to be the site of a fort; now it’s an upscale hotel. Across the street is the merlion (half-fish, half-lion) statue. This is one of Singapore’s most famous tourist attractions (similar to Copenhagen ‘s Little Mermaid). Many years ago a prince claimed to have seen the merlion at this very spot next to the Singapore River. I think he was probably smoking some strange plants, but hey, the story gets people to go to that spot. Just across the Singapore River is the Esplanade, which is Singapore’s new performing arts center. It’s very popular for both its acoustics and unusual design. The press release says the design expresses harmony with nature, reflecting the balance of yin and yang. That’s a little deep for me, but I enjoyed it both inside and out. To the far right of the Esplanade is the Ritz Carlton, one of Singapore’s best hotels. A few blocks away is the City Hall and Supreme Court building. The Supreme Court was built in 1939. There are giant Corinthian columns on the outside, and murals by an Italian artist on the inside. It was not a building I expected to see in Asia. If you are interested, you can watch a presentation on the Singapore judiciary system. I chose a soccer game and cricket match instead. They were played (at separate times) on the huge field in front of the building. I don’t know about you, but I can’t for the life of me figure out cricket -- and I watch and play a lot of sports. My favorite building in Singapore (it had such a good feeling about it) is just around the corner. It’s the Old Parliament House, and is Singapore's oldest government building. It was a two-story private mansion until the government took it away from the Scottish bloke who built it, and turned into the parliament building. Today it’s becoming the new hip place for arts and corporate events. FYI: The bronze elephant statue in front was a gift from King Chulalongkorn of Siam (Thailand) in 1871. Our next stop was the Boat Quay. Walking over there, an interesting thing happened which I think says a lot about the residents of this country. I wanted to get a picture of this guy’s rickshaw bicycle, but he quoted me $10 for a shot. I counter-offered $5. He said no. My new friend Sharrie got upset. She spoke to him in Chinese, and the next thing I knew the guy was putting me on the bike. When I got off I went to hand him a $5 bill, but he refused. When we walked away I asked Sharrie what the heck she said to him? She said it was hard to translate, but basically she told him he was not portraying a good image of their city. Nobody in Singapore wants to do that. And it wasn’t because of fear of the government, but rather pride. The Boat Quay was my favorite place to have dinner, because in the evening all the restaurants and pubs have amazing views. While dining outside on the patio overlooking the river filled with colorfully lit boats, and the magnificent Singapore skyline in the background, I realized this has to be Asia’s most beautiful city. It was an incredible sight -- and the temperature was perfect. We ate at the House of Sundanese, which serves excellent Indonesian food. I love spicy food, and this place had plenty of it. To quench my thirst (and cool my mouth) I drank four lime juices -- the local non-alcoholic favorite. The only thing I didn’t like about the Boat Quay was getting hounded by hostesses and maitre d’s as we walked past their restaurants. By the time we got to the end of their property, they were offering us all kinds of discounts. But the food is so inexpensive, you don’t even need special deals. Over dinner, Sharrie explained why the Singaporean government has so many strict laws. It has to do with money. The government of Singapore loves making money, and hates spending it. For example, chewing gum is banned because people used to stick used gum on subway doors, which then broke. I can’t really complain, because this is one of (if not the) safest and cleanest countries in the world. As a reader pointed out in an email (below), he would be happy to give up some personal liberties to avoid some of the other inconveniences (like murders, rapes and car thefts) that the rest of the world experiences regularly. Obviously, I choose America. By the way, it’s not like police are everywhere, handcuffing people and issuing tickets. In fact, the whole time I was there I did not see one person getting a ticket — in fact, I hardly saw any police at all. After dinner we walked to nearby Chinatown. We passed a Western Night place, filled with Chinese people dancing and singing country music – now that was something to see. Chinatown is Singapore's cultural heart, and offers visitors a peek into the old days of Singapore. There are many restaurants, temples, decorated balconies, and a ton of inexpensive indoor and outdoor shops. You can buy everything from fresh fruit (whole pineapples cost only 50 U.S. cents!) and tasty desserts (called Tu Tu Coconut cake) to all kinds of souvenirs. Remember to bargain like you’re in China. I was told by a local to offer 10% and never go higher than 30%, but I think that‘s a little low -- I usually do 50%. The next day I had the privilege of checking in at one of the world’s most famous hotels: Raffles. It’s 5 stars, and complete luxury. In fact, it’s often described as a “Singaporean institution”. The hotel was named after our boy Sir Stamford Raffles, who as you remember from last week’s newsletter founded modern Singapore. The hotel was originally built in 1887 as a bungalow. By the 1920s and ‘30s it had expanded to become a playground for celebrities like Charlie Chaplin and various kings, sultans and politicians (one entire wall is filled with pictures of famous guests). Raffles also has one of the most famous bars in the world: the Long Bar. This is where the Singapore Sling was created. In 1987 Raffles was declared a landmark, and restored. The white building now has an elegant wraparound porch, with comfy chairs and magnificent landscaping. Inside, there are high molded ceilings with spinning fans, tiled teak and marble floors, Oriental carpets and antique furniture. When I arrived I immediately noticed the incredible service. One person opened the taxi for me; another grabbed my bags, and a third escorted me to the front desk. What’s really nice is that every staff member was not only dressed to the nines, but they were genuinely friendly. Every hotel worker greets visitors -- and they look at you in the eye and smile. All 103 rooms are suites – yeah, baby! The bad news is they’re not cheap – prices range from $375- $3,500 USD. The first room in each suite has a small dining area and living room with oriental carpets, reproduction furniture and a TV. The next room contains a large bedroom with a four-poster king-size bed, a beautiful armoire and ceiling fan. The bathroom was divided into two parts, with a shower, bath tub and bidet. There were all kinds of nice bathroom amenities made by Aveda. Every night the maid would turn down the bed, and put out slippers and a Fable of the Exotic East. Every room comes with what the hotel calls a “valet” -- a personal butler. Man, are they efficient! I called down for one (to hook up high speed in my room). He arrived within minutes, and was not only friendly but very knowledgeable. The hotel has eight restaurants, two bars, a billiard room, outdoor pool, business center, salon, and a small fitness center with Jacuzzi, sauna, steam and spa. It is connected to the Raffles Hotel Arcade, with over 50 specialty shops. The hotel is a national landmark, and hundreds of people pass through the lobby each day. To keep tourists at bay the enforce a strict dress code for visitors, and allow them in only a small portion of the lobby (signs read "Residents Only”). This is one place you want to be a resident of! Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road; tel.: +65-6337-1886. Jumping up and down on my bed in excitement worked up an appetite, so I walked around the block. Guess what I found. That’s right -- another mall. How surprising! Shopping must be the only thing these people do. This mall was called Raffles City, and you don’t even need to ask where I went — you know it was straight to the food court. I was starving, and the first station I came upon had fresh sliced fruit and juices. Everything looked great. They were so inexpensive, I ordered three different kinds. I then ate all kinds of fried vegetables and chicken dumplings. I had to try a local dessert, which would have been a tasty snow cone until they ruined it by adding cream corn and other nasty toppings. In case you’re wondering, Singapore does have American fast food restaurants, but shame on you if you go to one. It’s a total waste of a meal -- and an experience. As you can see, there are many malls in Singapore and a lot of them are connected. Rafffles City Mall is physically connected to Suntec City, Singapore's largest shopping mall. Suntec City has over 200 shops, 70 restaurants and a bunch of adjacent buildings, including Singapore’s International Convention & Exhibition Centre. At Suntec City Mall make sure to visit (and touch) the water from the Fountain of Wealth. It may not bring you wealth, but at least you can say you saw the world’s largest fountain. I then met back up with Sharrie, and we explored some more. We took the MRT (conveniently located throughout the city) out to Little India. This is a colorful area of town, along the southern end of Serangoon Road. The road is lined with Indian restaurants and shops that sell everything Indian: silk saris, elaborate gold jewelry, aromatic incense sticks, spices, furniture and music. All the shops are jammed packed with… you guessed it: Indians (and a few tourists, of course). What I liked best about this section of town was all the Hindu Temples – they were so colorful. From there we took the MRT out to the northern end of the country. We had to change trains, so it took about 45 minutes (there were stops every few minutes). When we arrived we were almost at the Malaysian border (it’s only 35 minutes from the heart of the city), and our destination: the Night Safari, next to the Singapore Zoo. To reach the park from the MRT, visitors must take either a short taxi or bus ride. We should have taken a taxi to and from my hotel. The ride home took only 20 minutes, and cost around $11 USD. The Night Safari is the world's first wildlife park built strictly for night visits. It’s a great idea, especially because 90% of all tropical wildlife animals are nocturnal. Thanks to subtle lighting techniques designed to create a moonlit effect, guests are able to view over 1,000 nocturnal animals, in 100 species. All are in their natural habitats, when they are most active. The park does not open until 7:30 p.m., which is about the time the sun sets everyday in Singapore. The animals live in landscaped areas, with barriers that are hard to see by visitors. We took a guided tram (for an extra $3.50 USD), and a lion looked pretty damn close to me. I was thinking, I really don’t see a fence, which means if that dude is hungry he could pounce on me and treat me like a kitty cat does a mouse. But that didn’t -- and doesn’t – happen because there are barriers. The tram ride is definitely worth the few extra dollars. It travels through different "regions" designed to resemble the Himalayan foothills, the jungles of Africa, and of course Southeast Asia. It takes 45 minutes, and covers almost two miles. The best part is that it makes stops, so visitors can get off, stroll along the walking trails for closer views, then hop back on a later one. They come every five minutes. Unfortunately I have no decent photos of the Night Safari. Flash photography is strictly prohibited because it would disturb the animals and we wouldn’t want to do that, now would we?My advice is to get there early or late, because when the line opens at 7:30 p.m. it is l-o-n-g! The park closes at midnight, and admission ends at 11. If you plan on visiting the Singapore Zoo and/or BirdPark (which I hear is excellent), buy a park hopper pass for a discount. The Night Safari , 80 Mandai Lake Rd.; tel. 6269-3411. The next day I walked past the Boat Quay to Clarke Quay. This is the area of Singapore's first riverside village, and there are more than 30 shops and 20 places to eat or drink. In the evening it becomes a huge night bazaar. I went because I wanted to take a boat ride down the Singapore River. It’s better to get on here, because most tourist board the boats (called junks) at the Boat Quay, so those are packed. Guess how many people were on my boat? Zero! I had it all to myself, for the entire 30-minute ride -- all for $7 USD. Clarke Quay.The last thing I did with Sharrie was have high tea at the Equinox restaurant on the 70th floor of the Stamford Hotel. The floor-to-ceiling views of Singapore are breathtaking (especially if you are afraid of heights, like me!). From up here you can even see Malaysia and Indonesia. How close are those countries? Earlier in the day I smelled smoke. Later, I heard on the news it came from Indonesian forest fires (unfortunately, they burn quite often). High tea was not just a spot of tea, but rather a late lunch or early dinner. They serve all kinds of food and desserts – and plenty of them -- and there is something for everyone (even picky eaters like myself). High Tea is served from 3 - 5 p.m., and reservations are recommended. Well, guess what time it is? Time to say goodbye to Singapore. Next week we fly back to America on a very special (and long) flight. In fact, we will be part of history as we take the inaugural flight of the world’s longest – that’s right, the very first one. Don’t miss out on all our pictures and stories!

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